Spring Break 2016: 36 Hours in Milwaukee

The New York Times has a travel feature called 36 Hours. The schtick is that they lay out a core set of things to do in 36 hours of real time. This year the kids’ Spring Break snuck up on us and I had nothing planned. So I put together a short jaunt to Milwaukee with some (planned and unplanned) stops along the way. S-L added the meal components. Here’s our report:

Racine: Trump Rally

We had to drop off Kitteh early on Saturday morning and then got donuts at Stan’s. This still left some goodly time to get to SC Johnson by 10AM, so we decided to detour to downtown Racine and take some pics at around 9AM. We saw a bunch of cops and people standing in line, then some Trump-oriented vehicles. We quickly realized we stumbled on a Trump rally. Fuck that guy. So we got out to take some pics.

Trump Rally Racine

Continue reading “Spring Break 2016: 36 Hours in Milwaukee”

Trellick Tower, A Brutalist Wonder Caught from a Passing Train

We were on a train from Slough this afternoon and I spotted this:

Trellick Tower

A Brutalist bookend-er of a building. I did a Street View search and found the name of it, and then the Wikipedia page for Trellick Tower. Stuff:

Brutal + Beautiful.

Here’s a video from our whole day, which included Windsor Castle and Notting Hill:


Custom Iron Work and Lucite Handle, 1714 W. Division, Chicago

S-L and I were walking last week and we noticed– for the first time– the great custom facade on this building.

The iron grate work over the front doors have a staggered pattern of cylinders:

Custom Iron Work and Lucite Handle, 1714 W. Division, Chicago

They look to me like slugs of metal from some other process, as if the person who made it just saved up scraps on a shop floor until they had enough for the whole job:

Iron Work Detail: Custom Iron Work and Lucite Handle, 1714 W. Division, Chicago

Then there is a marvelously intact lucite door pull:


Really well-done. Complete set here.

The Hidden Wonders of Brutalist London

I like Brutalist architecture, mainly because it is an expression of human capacity for newness. Having attended the University of Illinois at Chicago, the Walter Netsch-designed “Instant Campus“, I also have a pretty good window into the deficiencies of the raw concrete mode of creating human space.

Everywhere I go, I try to see and capture examples of Brutalism. One of the characteristics of the style is that it is international– bricks and concrete formed in practical forms with a focus on the human structure of the occupants tend to repeat their forms all over.

I’ve found concrete wonders in Paris, Dublin, and Rome in the last year or so. In have a very loose criteria of  documenting Brutalist buildings:

  • Poured concrete as a major component of its structure
  • Interesting geometric shapes formed by poured concrete or well-cut brickwork
  • Architectural elements like repeating patterns in brick or concrete and an emphasis on a particular interior space

The loose criteria allows me to capture many of the hidden structures of the 60s and 70s. I can find some dating to the 80s, but these are usually only as a co-incidence of a desire for affordable construction or retrofitted circumstances. What I like to do best is go past the superstar buildings built by the masters descendant from Le Corbusier and see how the techniques, forms, and materials of Brutalism serve people today.

Toward that end, here’s what I’ve harvested from walking about 60 miles in the city of London with my wife over the last week:

Dowgate Fire Station on Upper Thames just west of the London Bridge is a real favorite:

Dowgate Fire Station

If all were right in the world, the extended window on the second floor would contains the office of the fire chief (sort of like how the Mayor’s Office protrudes from Boston City Hall):

Dowgate Fire Station

I like the faux flying buttresses here:

Dowgate Fire Station

mondial-houseThis fire station is actually just a small portion of a larger structure, the Mondial House, which was criticized by none other than Prince Charles as “the dreadful Mondial House”. The only thing dreadful about it was that they pulled their punches and clad the place in white polyester, so as to hide its concrete goodness. Here’s an amazing page on the Internet with more detail on the fire station.

Just south of the fire station is One Swan Lane, a pretty classic Brutalist structure with an exaggerated presentation of the building’s physical plant:

Attractive Woman With Packages, One Swan Lane, London

Bonus: One Swan Lane is also the HQ of Groupon UK (cc/ @andrewmason):

Groupon HQ at Number One Swan Lane

Here’s a view of One Swan Lane from London Bridge at dusk:

View from London Bridge, Dusk December, London

Just for the heck of it, here’s a car park in Spitalfields, included just because I like it:

Spitalfields, London

The London College of Fashion has some brutalist tendencies in its use of vast fields of concrete:

London College of Fashion

I’m pretty sure this is where Rick Astley stays when he is in London:

This is where Rick Astley Stays When He is in London.
Here’s a great example, on the corner of Gloucester Road and Canning Place, of how one can mimic styles using multiple materials. There are three types of rounded balconies in this shot: one with detailed brickwork, one in poured concrete, and the original reference (in Kensington Gatedating to 1894), in the background:

Brick Brutalist w/ Curves

Here is a true hidden Brutalist wonder– the Lancaster Hall Hotel/ YMCA. Exquisite decorative concrete:

Lancaster Hall Hotel London at Night

Poured concrete sections stuck together to form an awning entrance that is so common in London:

Lancaster Hall Hotel London at Night

This isn’t exactly a hidden wonder, because it is the last work of a relatively famous Scottish architect who specialized in brut, Sir Basil Spence. It is the Kensington and Chelsea Town Hall, tucked into a residential area:

Kensington and Chelsea Town Hall, London, by Sir Basil Spence, 1977

Here’s a great detail that shows the care given to the brickwork and also exposes some of the maintenance issues you can have with this type of building:

Kensington and Chelsea Town Hall, London, by Sir Basil Spence, 1977
An example of a Brutalist building next to a classic ancient piece of architecture is St. Pauls Station, just north of St. Paul’s Cathedral (in background):

Brutalist Building Near St. Pauls, London

Nice touch: some  concrete benches across from St. Pauls Station building:

Brutalist Bench Near St. Pauls, London

A concrete building on the North Wharf with decorative pebbles in the mix. The building cantilevers nicely over the sidewalk and a staircase that heads to the basement in a way that evokes both Frank Lloyd Wright and Mies van Der Rohe:

Hidden Brutalism, London

Lastly, a shot from a passing taxi on the way to Charring Cross

Brutalist Office on the Way to Charing Cross

Architectural Landmark Permit Details for Flagship Walgreens Store at North, Milwaukee, and Damen in Bucktown

The new Walgreens opened at 1601 N. Milwaukee in Bucktown/ Wicker Park, located in a building that I’ve written extensively about this building here is opening today.

Here’s the press release: Walgreens Restores Chicago’s Historic Noel State Bank Building into Flagship Store.

And some relevant snips on architectural detail:

Throughout the last two years, Walgreens has worked closely with the city’s Commission on Chicago Landmarks on the building restoration. The exterior is clad entirely in ornamental terra cotta. Large windows are divided by rising pilasters topped with Corinthian capitals, and a prominent cornice wraps around the rounded corner of the building.

Extensive restoration took place on the building’s coffered plaster ceiling, which features abundant non-symmetrical hexagons that frame griffins and other ornate designs, all of which form into successive yet subtle Star of David patterns. At the center is a large stained glass window with a six-point star design. Walgreens also restored the interior columns topped with pilasters and the original bank vault, which will be repurposed as a “Vitamin Vault” in the store’s health and wellness section.

Here’s the text of the instructions from the Commission on Chicago Landmarks when they approved the construction in March 2011, along with some images that support the work they’ve done:

1601 N. Milwaukee (Milwaukee Avenue District – 32nd Ward)

Proposal: Proposed rehabilitation and conversion to a retail use of a 3-story limestone bank building, including masonry repair and repainting, enlargement of ground-floor window openings, window replacement, and new retail tenant signs.

Action: Approved unanimously with the following conditions:

1. The fourteen ground-floor window openings, proposed to be enlarged, are original character-defining features on primary (street) elevations of the building, and the size of the openings shall not be changed. However, given that the existing windows are not historic, and in furtherance of the intended retail use of the building, the replacement ground-floor windows need not match the original configuration but may be undivided picture windows with minimal framing designed to maximize the amount of glazing areas;

The large windows stacked on top of the smaller look-in windows are a great feature on the thin city sidewalk w/ no parkway along Damen:

1601 North Milwaukee at Night, Interior Lit, September 2012

2. As proposed, all new replacement glass shall be clear glass. Existing and proposed dimensioned window and door details, and their proposed finishes, shall be included in the permit plans;

Clear as a bell:

East Windows Detail of New Bucktown Walgreens

3. The fixture plan shall be further studied. Areas behind the windows should be kept open and unobstructed to allow transparency and views into the building. Additional information about the build-out behind the windows, any proposed window signage, and merchandising installations shall be provided for Historic Preservation staff review and approval as part of the permit application;

Unobstructed views in and out of the east side of the store through to the cafe / deli area.

View from Second Floor Balcony, New Bucktown Walgreens

The west side of the building has the escalators and are otherwise clear of fixtures or store shelves.

Column-Topper Detail, First Day of New Bucktown Walgreens

4. Masonry cleaning, repair, and replacement details shall be included in the permit application plans. Samples of any replacement stone, patching, and mortar shall be reviewed and approved by Historic Preservation staff prior to order and installation. Any new limestone shall match the unpainted limestone in color, texture, and finish; and any new mortar shall match the historic unpainted condition in color, profile, and composition;

Sometimes they had to clean the masonry even after they had done their full whitewash of the exterior:

Noel State Bank Building, 1601 N. Milaukee

5. A conditions analysis of the paint and stone shall be performed by a qualified materials engineer/conservator to determine the appropriate paint product type, color, and finish for the existing painted limestone. The analysis and paint specification shall be submitted for review and approval by Historic Preservation staff prior to order and application;

Here’s a look at a plate holding the signage up– matching the new paint color of the limestone:

External Signage of New Bucktown Walgreens

6. As proposed, no exterior light fixtures shall be mounted to the stone facades;

Instead, they mounted the lights on the signage itself:

External Signage of New Bucktown Walgreens

7. The location, size, design, and attachment details for the large “W” sign shall be further studied so as not to obscure character-defining features such as windows and to ensure that it will not adversely affect the building or the district. [A possible location is the wall area below the proposed window location.]

Here it is:

W Sign on New Bucktown/ Wicker Park Walgreens

Situated directly over the round window above the main entrance:

Noel State Bank Building, 1601 N. Milaukee

The four signs proposed above the doors should be relocated to the flat stone jambs above the door and below the beaded stone molding, or could be relocated to the flat stone pilasters next to the doors and designed to appear like plaques. The other proposed sign areas, the two locations along the stone sign bands at the parapet and the proposed projecting banners mounted at the stone pilasters are approved in concept only. A rendering showing all proposed signage shall be submitted to Historic Preservation staff as part of the continued review. All future signage including material, color, attachment details, sizes, lighting and other information shall be reviewed and approved by Historic Preservation staff prior to order and installation. The signs shall be designed with as few attachments to the masonry as possible, and with attachments preferably located at the mortar joints; and,

I’m not sure exactly what they’re referring to here— I think I have to take a look at the agenda and other meeting materials to get a better idea.

8. The proposed use of the building requires a zoning change for the portion of the lot which is currently zoned M1-2. The Commission takes no position regarding the merits of any requested zoning change.

Overall, this is a really nice store that is very sensitive to the surrounding streetscape and complies with the goals set forth by the Commission on Landmarks. Win.